Back to school
Im still to be found on the shores of Lago Peten Itza. In Mayan it apparently means island (Peten) of black magic (It) water (za). Something like Island of the Black Magic People by the water. The local people in San Andres have heaps of great folklore about the area, lake spirits, witch doctors and a giant serpent which lives in the depths of the water.
After passing a few more days in Flores with a really special French chick, Marion, I am now in San Andres on the other side of the lake to do some Spanish language school and some volunteer projects. Marion I actually meet in Mazunte in Oaxaca over a month ago, only a very brief encounter. Because the banks ran out of currency due to some banks shuting down during the middle of a currency transition, there was no money in the ATMs and heaps of people, travelers included, were stuck cueing up out the front of the banks every morning trying to obtain funds, under the watchful eye of Guatemalteco jug heads with semi automatics. Those travelers with credit cards were cool because they could eat at expensive restuarants and hotels, but I was basically fucked until I was able to get some Western Union action from good old reliable mom (not old as in old!) Bascially I had no food to eat for two days and I was wondering the streets bleary-eyed sizing up the local street dogs (they have more meat than you would think at first glance) when Marion bumped into me and took me under her wings for a few days of credit-card induced decadence . We ended up having some fun and hope to catch with her later when I finish school. Its cool to meet some truely lovely and interesting travelers who arent spoilt brats with manicured dreads and sickening amounts of money but no imagination.
Im staying with a local Mayan family and its an interesting experience to take in different customs and senses of privacy, communication and family dynamics. Its noisy becuase the walls dont actually go all the way to the roof so even when your in your room you get very well aquainted with everyone in the house and what they´re doing at all hours. The school basically burnt down a few weeks ago but It doesnt really matter becuase they have another building and not many estudientes at the moment. It sucks for them though because they are cash strapped and dont have many resources, the fire was certainly the talk of the town. Its amazing how many evangelical churches there are in this tiny lakeside town. There is an evangelical TV channel as well which produces a constant stream of televised evangelical priests, and also some wonderful low budget soap operas which feature a wide variety of story lines where people with problematic lives convert to christianity, and miraculously evrything works itself out just fine and dandy (Often with big family hugs and everyone weeping and praising Jesus). All the characters who arent envangelicals are of course drug addicts, rapists and general thugs. Its so hilarious I try not to laugh to hard when I watch it (which is often) because the family im staying with are evangelicals as well. They are lovely though, quite friendly.
Ive had continual digestive upsets for weeks and got really sick again when I first arrived. Im back on a lovely chemical coctail of antibiotics and anti parasitic drugs becuase I might have become host to some of the friendly local parasites after swallowing the lake water while swimming: The lake is beautiful as long as you keep you mouth shut while swimming. And avoid the water snakes. It is nice though. Clear aquamarine water around the edges - looks very tropical when its sunny.
My main goal for the week is to basically avoid having to go to the local dentist for any reason whatsoever.
Take care you miraculous sponges.
x love x love x love
luke
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